Manik Viharaya is one of my favorite sites in Polonnaruwa. Maybe it's the terracotta lion figures that attract me. I am not sure. But definitely they are delightful company and most enjoyable.
These terracotta lion figures are set into a panel which runs at the base of the rectangular terrace on which the stupa of the Manik Viharaya is built. The terrace and stupa are brick built. The lion figures are of equal size and for most equal in design and detail. It seems that these shaggy headed adorables gladly bear the weight of the terrace and guard the stupa with its sacred relic.
These lions will grin and mock at you, as you approach the sacred precincts. Their eyes bulging, nostrils flaring, they will try to frighten you, if you are not of pure heart. They squat and watch you at attention. With manes spread and tails raised, ready to jump into action. They seem disturbed and restless. They are on guard and seem to take their duty seriously. And yet like all sculpture, they are so pitifully captured into relief and so helpless in their frozen state of reality.
The stupa of the Manik Viharaya is of a rare design. It is surrounded by a high wall. Some say that the stupa is built in the shape of a lotus. It is some 30 ft. in diameter, and small compared to its neighboring Rankoth Viharaya and Kiri vehera. It seems that there have been only one entrance. A flight of narrow stone steps lead up the terrace through a stone frame door way to the stupa. At the bottom of the steps is a simple sandakada pahana or moon stone and two beautiful mura gal or guard stones. On the outer side and attached to these guard stones is sculpted a column on which is a kneeling figure of an elephant. This is something unusual and not found usually in the art of guard stones.
There seems to be two shrine rooms in this complex. The standing and other Buddha images some in whole and some broken can be seen amongst these ruins still in their ancient majesty.
From the excavations carried out in the area marked as the monks medical centre archaeologists have unearthed some interesting artifacts including a pair of surgical forceps.
Popularly referred to as the Manik Vehera, there seems to be little detail about the history of this monastery. According to scholars taking the architectural features into account it has been attributed to the 8 -9th centuries A.D.
The Manik Vehera complex is just outside the northern gate on the left side of the road. The path to the main stupa stretches through the shade of young and old trees, passing many ruins, which may or may not belong to this complex. A deep flight of steps will lead you to a higher level and here you will find a layout of old buildings including the main stupa, bodhi tree shrine, image houses, monks refectory, monks dispensary and other buildings pertaining to monks quarters including a lavatory. These buildings have been identified by archaeologists and sign boards affixed.
by Kishanie S. Fernando
Daily Mirror, November 19, 2007
